You can forgive them because it’s true. But the treasures at this
Mediterranean and Lebanese restaurant on the northern edge of Golden won’t
cost you a fortune. Heck, a body can get one of the best falafel sandwiches in
town for $3.95. Or if you want to really splurge, shell out $13.95 for the most
expensive item on the menu and go for the soltani: one skewer of marinated beef
loin and another of kobideh (ground sirloin mixed with onions and Persian
spices).
You’ll be seated in a purple space tastefully appointed with lamps bearing
glass-bead shades, and the Persian music doesn’t drown out conversation.
Servers arrive promptly with house-baked pita bread and hummus drizzled with
olive oil and sprinkled with sumac, a tart, bright red spice.
Beverages are fun. Order a glass of lemonade ($2.50), and you get an
unexpected blend of lemon and orange, fresh-squeezed daily and lightly
sweetened. Strawberry or mango juice go for the same price, or you can have a
banana milk cocktail ($2.25), chai tea ($1.95) or Turkish coffee ($2.25).
All is well with the baba ghanouj appetizer ($3.95): The pureed eggplant has
silky consistency, and the garlic doesn’t overpower the sesame sauce and lemon
juice. But for a different taste, try sambusek. Aotabachi folds onion, spinach,
walnuts and pomegranate sauce into wonton skins and flash fries them. It’s a
tangy, light, crunchy medley offset by the richness of the olive oil.
But this is a grill, and the meats rule. With the lamb kebabs ($9.95),
Aotabachi’s marinade and charbroiling impart perfect texture to the exterior
while sealing the juices inside and keeping the meat tender. Roma tomatoes and
green peppers skewered alongside have the right amount of charring — not
burnt, but tastefully smoky.
The gyros sandwich ($3.95) — rotisserie-broiled spiced beef filet — is a
monster offering that likely will end up as lunch the next day.
Fizzle: Small room plus big following equals crowds.
Sizzle: Baklava is homemade.
